
So, we’ve talked about sanitiser, and we’ve also mentioned filtration
With regular use of your filtration system, along with a perfect level of chlorine, you are well on your way to picking up your test kit as a Pool Chemistry Master.
But, wait, I hear you say, aren’t there more things to worry about – more drops to put in the test kit, and let’s face it, many more products in the pool shop!
You’re right. Just a few very important things. So let’s look at Pool Chemistry 101!
What you are trying to do is balance your pool (or spa). But why worry about chemical balance?
Well, if there are too few chemicals, it will become corrosive both in the water and to your pool equipment. If there are too many chemicals, this results in the scaling and calcium build-up on water and equipment, so you are treading a fine line.
You are actively seeking neutral water! The 3 main lookouts: Alkalinity, pH and Calcium Hardness.
Alkalinity
Alkalinity or Total Alkalinity helps to pull the strings over your pH levels, sending them up or down. If your Total Alkalinity is too low, then your pH is usually low, leaving you with irritated eyes and corrosive water. Not to mention green water. But if the Alkalinity is too high, then your pH will be high, and you will get a cloudy pool.
As a guideline, Total Alkalinity should usually be between 60-200 ppm.
pH
How acidic or alkaline is your pool? This is the most important factor, and it’s what you are striving for: the ideal pH of between 7.4 and 7.6 – neutrality.
So, once again, low pH means corrosive water. High pH means scaling and calcium build-up.
Calcium Hardness
How much calcium do you have in your pool? Have you ever really thought about it? It’s the other important factor in swimming pool care.
Only a small amount over the prescribed range brings on itchy, irritated eyes, whereas more makes your pool water unstable. And larger amounts? That’s when you get cloudy water, roughened pool shells, calcium build-up in pool equipment and limescale. So what about when your pool has too little calcium? Then you’re up for damage to your pool shell, damage to any metal fittings and staining.
However, there is a positive side to this possible doom: the prescribed range for calcium hardness lies between 80 and 500 ppm, so there’s quite a margin for error.
Does Pool Chemistry still sound easy? Armed with a quality 4 in 1 test kit with reasonable instructions, you can do your own testing.
Remember that the guidelines given here for chemical ranges are for general use.
Some equipment, such as gas heaters, may be more specific about the chemical range required to keep performing at their best. You can usually find chemical ranges for these products in their instruction manuals.
So here’s a question for you. You have perfect pH, but a few other things are all over the shop. What do you do?
Any questions for us? Why not call? We’re always happy to help.
Perhaps all of this continual testing sounds too hard?
Take a look at our chemical dosing page (but an occasional water test still has to happen!) Another option is to call us out to see you. We can either provide you with a test kit or show you how to use your own. That way, you’ll learn how it all works with your own equipment.
On a final note, daily pool tests with your 4 in 1 kit aren’t that difficult. Pool Chemistry 101 is simple, it’s just when you avoid testing that the huge bills arise.
We recommend that you learn how to perform a test with a decent kit as soon as possible to save your equipment and the amount spent at the pool shop.
And remember – You should only need 3 chemicals: Sanitiser, pH Buffer and your Pool Acid.